Sweden 2025

The Swedish Summer Dream

  For my birthday, I set off on an exciting Scandinavian adventure, just like two years ago, when I visited Norway. This time the journey took me from Basel via Amsterdam all the way up to Stockholm, where I planned to spend a week soaking up the magic of the Swedish summer. The timing couldn't have been better: while Freiburg was stuck in a gloomy stretch of rain, I managed to escape straight into long days of sunshine and fresh northern air. Landing in Stockholm in the middle of the night felt a little surreal. My trip wasn't over yet - first came a quick ride on the Arlanda Express into the city, followed by a late-night bus to Älvsjö. By the time I finally checked into my hotel, the clock showed 3:30 a.m. Exhausted but happy, I jumped into bed. Thankfully, the next morning offered me a chance to sleep and recharge - just what I needed before diving headfirst into the grand adventure of exploring Stockholm. 

  After a cozy breakfast at my hotel in Älvsjö, I hopped on the train into central Stockholm, ready to dive into a full day of sightseeing in Sweden's stunning capital. My first stop after a short walk was the iconic Stockholm City Hall, an architectural masterpiece built between 1911 and 1923. This impressive red-brick building, designed in the Swedish National Romantic style, also features striking classical columns and Mediterranean influences, particularly reminiscent of Venice. Just as a light rain began to fall, I was lucky enough to join a guided tour of the City Hall, which took me through its most celebrated rooms. The Golden Hall, inspired by Byzantine art, left me speechless with its shimmering mosaics depicting both Christian motifs and key moments from Swedish history. Equally memorable was the Blue Hall, famously home to the annual Nobel Prize banquet. As the tour wrapped up, so did the rain - perfect timing to continue my exploration under blue skies. Back out on the streets, I strolled past the Hemlös Räv statue, a sculpture of a homeless fox that poignantly highlights Sweden's ongoing issue with homelessness. From there, I made my way to Kungsträdgården, a beautifully landscaped public park. It's the perfect spot to pause, unwind, and enjoy the peaceful flower gardens and fountains. Another short walk later, I arrived at the Royal Palace, the official residence of King Carl XVI. Gustaf. I happened to arrive just in time to witness the majestic horse parade of the Swedish Royal Guards - a true highlight that added a special royal touch to the day. Next up was Riddarhuset, the House of Nobility, followed by a visit to the Evert Taube Terrace, named after the beloved Swedish troubadour from the Gothenburg archipelago. Although this statue was partially hidden behind scaffolding, the sweeping view across the water toward the City Hall was well worth.

  From there, I made my way back to Gamla Stan, Stockholm's charming old town. This historic district is a treasure trove of colourful facades, winding cobblestone alleys and inviting cafés. One of my favourite spots was Stortorget, where I found myself returning three times to the cozy café Chokladkoppen to sample their irresistible treats. The white hot chocolate and the white chocolate cheesecake were hands-down my favourites - the perfect sweet indulgence while watching the buzz of activity in the square outside the Nobel Museum. Energised by sugar and caffeine, I continued exploring Gamla Stan's hidden gems, including Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, one of the narrowest alleyways in Europe and the Saint George and the Dragon statue, a powerful depiction of good triumphing over evil. In the late afternoon, I crossed over to the northern edge of Södermalm, Stockholm's bohemian soul. One of the true highlights here was the Monteliusvägen walking path, a narrow trail that rewards every step with breathtaking panoramic views over the city and the Lake Mälaren. Of course, no trip to Stockholm would be complete without sampling some authentic Swedish cuisine. On my first evening, I dined at Pelikan, a traditional restaurant famed for its classic Köttbullar. On a different evening, I tried Meatballs for the People, a modern eatery offering creative takes on the classic dish - think bear, elk or reindeer meatballs, alongside the traditional versions. A must-visit for any food lover!

  The following day, I decided to immerse myself in Stockholm's lush and tranquil green oasis - Djurgården Island. After crossing the Djurgården Bridge, I was immediately greeted by the majestic Blå Porten, a stunning royal-looking entrance that leads into a serene walk along the island's coastline. However, before diving into the natural beauty, I opted to explore the island's rich cultural offerings. One of the first things that caught my attention was the Astrid Lindgren Sculpture, a tribute to Sweden's beloved author of children's books. But it was the Vasa Museum that truly took my breath away. The Vasa Museum is home to the incredible, almost perfectly preserved Vasa ship, a Swedish warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. The museum not only showcases the ship but also tells its captivating history. As Sweden's most visited museum, it's no wonder why - the Vasa itself is an architectural and artistic masterpiece, adorned with intricate wooden carvings and unique elements. The ship is displayed in a way that allows visitors to admire it from all angles: from below, the side and even from above. No matter the perspective, the ship's grandeur is simply awe-inspiring. 

  From the Vasa Museum, I headed over to Skansen, the world's oldest open-air museum, which offer an immersive glimpse into Swedish culture and history. The museum's mission is to preserve and showcase authentic Swedish buildings, objects and traditions. It's a place where history comes to life, with around 150 relocated buildings from across Sweden, ranging from rural farmhouses to bustling city homes, and even a church (the Seglora Church) and school (Väla School). The Scandinavian wood architecture made it easier to move entire buildings, but Skansen has also successfully transferred stone and brick buildings, maintaining their original charm and authenticity. In addition to the historical buildings, Skansen also features a diverse range of Nordic wildlife. I had the chance to visit the Sami camp, where reindeer roam and I discovered that the museum also houses around 300 animals from the Nordic fauna, including reindeer, elk, bears and more. Walking through the park, I felt completely immersed in the raw beauty of Sweden's nature. After soaking in the culture and wildlife, I ventured further into the island's green heart. I took a leisurely walk towards Rosendal Palace, one of the island's beautiful spots. The peaceful forest, the calming silence and the fresh, aromatic scents of the flora created the perfect environment to just be. I felt utterly relaxed, as though time had slowed down. As I made my way back, I stumbled upon a hidden gem: Skroten Café & Skeppshandel. It's a charming café offering a perfect blend of rustic warmth and modern flair. I treated myself to a delicious cappuccino and a slice of cake before continuing my exploration. From there, I wandered over to Becksholmen Island, a small scenic spot just a stone's throw away. Here, I was treated to a spectacular view of the nearby Gröna Lund amusement park, an unexpected sight in the middle of such a quiet area. It was the perfect end to my peaceful day, blending nature, history and the vibrant pulse of the city.

  On my third day in Stockholm, I decided to take things easy and enjoy the city at a leisurely pace. I didn't head into the heart of Stockholm until around noon, sterting my day by exploring the smaller islands Kastellholmen and Skeppsholmen. Each island in Stockholm has its own unique charm, and I've quickly come ro realise that no two islands were the same - each one offers something new and exciting to discover. Kastellholmen is home to the impressive Kastellholmen Fortress, with its historical significance and panoramic views of the surrounding water, while Skeppsholmen is an artistic haven, hosting several museums like the Moderna Museet. Strolling through these calm islands, it felt like stepping into a quieter, slower version of the city - the perfect break from the bustling centre. After a relaxing visit to Chokladkoppen - of course, another round of their famous white hot chocolate was a must - it was time for something truly special: the Archipelago Tour. For 2.5 hours, I boarded a boat that would take me along the coastlines of Stockholm's smaller islands, just a short distance outside the city. This boat trip was a magical experience - I was surrounded by the stunning beauty of Sweden's archipelago, with its tiny islands, lush forests and glimmering waters stretching out as far as the eye could see. It felt like stepping into a postcard. The scenery was so serene and idyllic that I could have spent hours just soaking it all in, with the gentle sway of the boat and the soft rustle of the wind in the trees. The combination of nature's tranquility and the views of the islands was utterly captivating, making it hard to believe I was so close to the city. But, as with all beautiful things, time seemed to fly by too quick and before I was ready, the tour already had come to an end.     

  After soaking up the vibrant city life during my three-days stay in Stockholm, I was ready for something different - slower, quieter and closer to nature. So, the next morning, I hit the road and drove nearly six hours to the peaceful seaside village Särö, located on Sweden's stunning west coast. My home for the next few days was a charming, fully-equipped cottage, nestled in a lush garden - just the kind of retreat I had in mind. As soon as I arrived, I took a leisurely walk through the village. Särö marks the transition between the rugged archipelago of Bohuslän to the north and the long, open coastline of Halland to the south. With its quaint houses, seaside charm and forest-lined paths, it was the perfect welcome to the west coast. After a restful night, I kicked off the next day with a relaxed breakfast in the garden, soaking up the summer sun and the gentle breeze. Then it was time to set off to explore the Bohuslän archipelago.

  My first destination was the picturesque island town of Marstrand, located across two islands - Marstrandö and Koö. The historic heart of Marstrand lies on Marstrandö, which is completely car-free and can only be reached by a short ferry ride. That small journey across the water already felt like entering a different world. The island's atmosphere is straight out of the storybook. The old wooden houses in soft pastel tones, the cobbled streets, the Marstrands Kyrka, dating back to the 14th century, and looming above all: the majestic Carlsten Fortress, guarding the island from its hilltop since the 17th century. From up there, the views over Skagerrak and Kattegat seas were absolutely breathtaking. One of the highlights of the visit was the hiking trail that winds its way through the forested parts of the island all the way out to the cliffs near the Skallen Lighthouse. I hadn't expected to stay on the island for more than a couple of hours, but the blend of cozy village charm and untamed natural beauty kept pulling me in. Before I knew it, I had spent most of the day wandering its narrow alleys and seaside paths. But it wasn't done yet. I hopped back in the car and continued north to Fiskebäckskil, a lovely old fishing village on the island of Skaftö, separated from the mainland town of Lysekil by a fjord. In the 19th century, Fiskebäckskil flourished as one of the most important harbour towns in Bohuslän - a legacy still visible in its large harbour and well-preserved architecture. The town is full of character: colourful wooden houses, a picturesque harbour, the beautifully painted wooden church and even an old Dutch-style windmill, built in the 19th century. I strolled through the village streets and along the waterfront, enjoying postcard-worthy views of Lysekil across the water. Before heading on, I grabbed a quick snack - a tradtional herring sandwich, which felt just right for the setting and was super delicious.

  The last stop of the day was perhaps the most iconic: the lively harbour town of Smögen, home of the famous Smögenbryggan. This almost one-kilometre-long wooden boardwalk is a hub of activity, lined with shops, cafés, abrs and restaurants on one side, and docked boats of all shapes and sizes on the other. I wandered all the way down to the colourful boathouses and old fishing huts at the far end - probably one of the most photopraphed spots in Sweden - and couldn't resist snapping my own photos that looked like they belonged on a postcard. On the way back, I made one final stop at the Smögen Bridge, which connects the island to the mainland. From up there, I got a panoramic view of the entire coastal landscape bathed in golden light. And just when i thought the day couldn't get any better, I returned to Särö just in time to catch a truly magical sunset - fiery colours stretching across the sky, mirrored in the calm sea below. It was the perfect ending to my first day on Sweden's west coast. Well, almost perfect - if you don't count the 27 mosquito bites I discovered on my arms and legs after viewing the sunset. But even that couldn't spoil the peaceful evening I spent back at the cottage, reflecting on a day full of discovery, sea breezes and Scandinavian charm.    

  After another slow and peaceful breakfast in the garden of the cozy cottage in Särö, I set off on a new adventure - this time heading almost all the way to the Norwegian border. My destination was the UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Tanum Rock Carvings, home to Sweden's most extensive and impressive collection of Bronze Age petroglyphs. Dating back around 3,000 years, the carvings at Tanum are more than just ancient art -they're windows into a long-lost world, offering incredible insight into the religious beliefs, social structures and daily lives of the people who once lived here. Spread out across six main sites - Vitlycke, Aspeberget/Tegneby, Fossum, Litsleby, Gerum and Kalleby - each location features large, natural rock surfaces covered in detailed, mysterious carvings with its own distinctive character. As I wandered the trails between the sites, I found myself stopping often, just to take in the sheer volume and variety of the motifs: dynamic battle and hunting scenes, men wielding axes and spears in dramatic groupings, large ships, some of which may have been used for war, while others likely symbolised trade, exploration or fishing. One of the most famous and touching images is the Bridal Couple of Vitlycke, often considered the most iconic carving in all of Sweden. But it was the powerful figure carved at Fossum that truly took my breath away: a 2.3 metres-tall spear warrior or deity, possibly a representation of a forgotten war god. There's something haunting about standing before these ancient works, etched so deeply into the stone you can still feel the intent of the hands that made them. Between the archaeological wonders and the peaceful walking trails that wind through forests and rocky meadows, Tanum was the perfect mix of history, nature and introspection. I let my thoughts wander as I walked, fully immersed in the timeless beauty of this unique landscape. 

  With the cultural part of the day behind me, I wasn't quite ready to head right back to Särö. So I made a spontaneous detour to Fjällbacka, a tiny coastal village that feels like it was pulled straight from a painting. Fjällbacka is most famous for its dramatic Vetteberg mountain and the legendary Kungsklyftan gorge, but it's the atmosphere that truly captures the heart. The harbour is the soul of the village - a lively mix of traditional fishing boats, elegant sailboats and charming cafés where locals and visitors gather to sip coffee, swap stories or simply watch the world go by. After a relaxing coffee by the water, I decided it was time to get moving again. The climb to the top of Vetteberg begins by passing through Kungsklyftan, a narrow chasm with a giant boulder seemingly wedged between the cliff walls - an almost mystic sight. From there, the trail gets steeper and more rugged, with loose stones, rock slabs and afew staircases to navigate before reaching the summit. It was a bit of a workout, but absolutely worth every step. The panoramic view from the top of Vetteberg is simply unreal - a sweeping vista of Fjällbacka below, with countless tiny islands dotting the blue waters of the archipelago like stepping stones to the horizon. I could have stayed there for hours, watching the light shift and shimmer over the sea, but the drive back to Särö was still ahead of me, so I slowly made my way down the rocky path and back to the car to drive back to the AirBnB.

  As rain was in the forecast for my last day on Sweden's West Coast, I decided to skip the hike I had originally planned. Instead, I set my sights on Gothenburg - a city I'd heard so many good things about. Especially for a street art enthusiast like myself, Gothenburg felt like an open-air gallery, bursting with colour, creativity and character at every turn. I dare say Gothenburg could rightfully claim the title of Sweden's Street Art Capital. From sprawling murals on warehouse walls to tiny, hidden gems tucked into alleyways, the city seemed to breathe art. Each piece told its own story, giving the urban landscape a unique and vibrant soul. To make the most of my visit, I used an online street art map to guide my route. This turned my art hunt into a self-made walking tour that led me through many of Gothenburg's iconic neighbourhoods and sights. I wandered through the bustling harbour, stood in awe of the grand Gothenburg Cathedral and explored the charming old town district of Haga. In Haga, I took a well-deserved break at the cozy and iconic Café Husaren, known for its giant cinnamon buns. I treated myself to a slice of traditional Princess Cake and, of course, a piece of the legendary Hagabullen. Just as the first drops of rain began to fall, I was safely nestled inside, enjoying the sweet comfort of Swedish fika. Later, I made my way to Slottskogen Park, Gothenburg's green hurt. The contrast between the peaceful forest atmosphere and the vibrant energy of the city was striking. As I wandered the quiet paths, breathing in the fresh air, I was gifted an unforgettable moment, when two graceful deer appeared seemingly out of nowhere, pausing long enough for an impromptu photo session. It felt like something out of a fairytale. On my way back to the car, the sky opened up with a heavier downpour. Luckily, I found shelter in a nearby bar, where I ended up chatting with a friendly local for nearly two hours over a couple of alcohol-free Sommersby ciders. All in all, it was the perfect ending to my Swedish journey - an adventure painted in colours, soaked in charm and wrapped in the warmth of a city that lives and breathes creativity. 

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