Georgia 2025

A Caucasian Dream in the Heart of Georgia

  In June, the time had finally come. It was off to the next adventure - a memorable trip to Georgia. Before the journey, I was mostly excited about the delicious Georgian food, but after the trip, I came to realise just how diverse the country truly is. In addition to the great food, which certainly includes the wine, Georgia also has the breathtaking natural beauty of the Caucasus and the heartwarming hospitality of the Georgian people. After a roughly eight hours journey from Freiburg via Basel and Istanbul to Tbilisi, we were warmly welcomed by Sebastian, our German guide for the first week. Following a delicious first dinner at the Pasanauri restaurant in Tbilisi - featuring Badrijani, Khinkali, Khachapuri and Pkhali - we headed to bed early to be ready for the next day and the upcoming adventures.

  After our first night at the Hotel Address 9D and the excellent Georgian breakfast, we set off to explore the northeast of Georgia. On our way toward Stepantsminda, several highlights awaited us, ones that would bring us much closer to the history and culture of the country. Not far outside of Tbilisi, we made our first stop at the Jvari Monastery, a Georgian Orthodox monastery from the 6th century that has remained almost unchanged until today. According to a legend, Saint Nino, who is believed to have brought Christianity to Georgia, had erected a cross at this spot as early as the 4th century. Besides this historical significance, the monastery also offers a stunning view into the valley, where the two rivers Aragvi and Kura meet. Just a few minutes further, we arrived at Mtskheta, the former capital of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia, a predecessor of today's Georgia. According to archaeological research, Mtskheta has existed for over 3,000 years and was once considered one of the most important trading hubs along the Silk Road due to its strategic location. Even today, it's a popular destination for both, tourists and locals, especially for the visit of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, a medieval masterpiece that served for centuries as the burial site for Georgian kings and, like the Jvari Monastery, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

  After a walk along the old city walls of Mtskheta, we took a short stroll down to the river to enjoy one more view of the breathtaking natural scenery before continuing on toward Pasanauri, the birthplace of the Khinkali dumplings. There, we stopped for lunch to strenghten ourselves for the rest of the journey. The Khinkali we had there were definitely the best I tried during the two weeks of being in Georgia. Well fed, we continued on to Ananuri, a late medieval fortress perched above the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir, offering a picturesque view of the lush, forested mountains. Since we planned to stop there again on the return journey, we only viewed the fortress from the outside. Although we unfortunately didn't manage to stop on the way back, we were at least able to enjoy a beautiful view of the lake and the fortress from the nearby bridge.   

  The same day, Georgia's indescribable natural beauty revealed itself to us in full force. Our adventure began with a quick stop at a scenic viewpoint, where we were not only soaked in panoramic views of the Caucasus, but also got our hands on some delicious local mountain honey with floral notes. Later, we laced up our boots for a short hike to the Arsha Waterfall, tucked away near the mountain town of Stepantsminda. The trail was narrow and winding, leading us first to the plateau of the smaller, lower waterfall. After a quick breather, I couldn't resist climbing higher. I scrambled up to a second plateau, where not only another waterfall greeted me - but an absolutely magical view over the valley. The highlight was that a rainbow appeared on the horizon, like a final touch on a painting. As luck would have it, we met a guy with a Delica van and he offered us to take us up to the Gergeti Trinity Church. We had originally planned to hike up, but with another trek planned for the following day, saving our energy made sense. Perched at about 2,200 metres beneath the towering Mount Kazbek, this 14th century church has become a national symbol of Georgia. In times of crisis, its walls protected priceless relics like Saint Nino's Cross. And the view of the church the next morning, as the sky began to clear, was simply picturesque.

  On the way to Stepantsminda, we also passed the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, built in 1983 to commemorate the ongoing friendship between Soviet Russia and Soviet Georgia at that times. On our return to Tbilisi, we stopped for a closer look. The monument's massive tiled murals depict dramatic scenes from Georgian and Russian history - but it's the setting that is really unique with the vast Devil's Valley with its wild and untouched nature. Another curious sight along the road? A long line of trucks idling by the roadside, all waiting to cross the single road into Russia. The sheer scale of the queue was strange and surreal - one of those moments we didn't expect, but won't forget.

  In the evening, we settled into a cozy restaurant to toast the day's adventures, with a glass of Georgian wine and our very first taste of Chacha, the Georgian grape brandy. Alongside the usual Badrijani, the standout dish was definitely Shkmeruli - tender garlic chicken in a creamy milk sauce, which was absolutely divine. During the dinner, Sebastian introduced us to the magic of the Georgian Supra, the traditional feast that lies at the heart of Georgian hospitality. The table is overflowed with dishes, music is played in the background and the Tamada - the toastmaker - is raising glass after glass, offering heartful toasts to life, love, family and the road ahead.        

  Before heading back to Tbilisi the next day, our Delica driver picked us up early for our final adventure in the northeast of Georgia - a hike through the spectacular Truso Valley. The drive itself was already an experience with a narrow mountain road carved along steep cliffs. But every twist and turn brought us closer to an unforgettable and dreamlike adventure. As we arrived, the scenery opened up into something almost surreal. Snow-capped peaks loomed in the distance, while lush green meadows rolled out beneath them, cut through by glacial streams and deposits that reached far into the valley. It honestly felt like stepping into a dream - one of those rare places where nature leaves me speechless. I had never seen anything quite like this before. Naturally, I couldn't resist hiking deeper toward the snowy mountains. I wanted to soak in every possible view. But the altitude quickly made itself known - hiking uphill here was a whole different game compared to my usual routes in the Black Forest. Still, I pushed on and made it to one of the higher plateaus. There, I found a quiet moment for myself, surrounded by silence and raw beauty. It was one of those soul-stirring views that stays with you forever. Afterwards, I made my way back to the group. Our next stop was a nearby village, where we got a glimpse of traditional Georgian life. We watched how local cheese is dried, admired an old Georgian watchtower, and even spent a few moments petting some free-roaming donkeys. The atmosphere was so peaceful and authentic and it felt like the time had slowed down. At the far end of the village, we found a tiny café, where we took a well-deserved break. That's also where we met a cheerful group of South Korean travellers and of course, I couldn't resist asking for a group picture with them. These spontaneous encounters are part of what makes travelling so special for me. After the break, we made our way back to Stepantsminda and from here, the scenic return to Tbilisi began. It was a perfect adventure filled with natural wonders, cultural glimpses and shared smiles.     

  After another night in Tbilisi, we set off the next morning toward the far east Georgia, heading deep into the stunning wine region of Kakheti. This part of the country showed us a completely different side of Georgia - far from the wild, rugged landscapes of the Caucasus Mountains. Instead, our drive was framed by semi-arid, steppe-like scenery. Our main destination for the day was the Georgian Orthodox monastery of David Gareja, located right on the border with Azerbaijan. It's not only one of the most remote religious sites in the region, but also the oldest monastery in Georgia, dating back to the 6th century. Before visiting the ancient cave monastery itself, we discovered a hidden gem nearby: the so called Rainbow Mountains. We opted for a short hike through the semi-desert landscape to get closer looks at this geological wonder with its vivid mineral colours and unique rock formations. It was an awe-inspiring and completely unexpected landscape, especially considering that just two days earlier, we were still immersed in Georgia's high mountain scenery. After our hike, we entered the monastery complex through the main gate. David Gareja offers a glimpse into Georgia's spiritual history, with cave dwellings, a chapel and beautiful frescoes carved directly into the rocks. A part of the complex, called Lavra, is still inhabited today - around ten monks continue to live and pray here. Inside the chapel, visitors were invited to write down prayer requests, which the monks would include in their prayers on the same day. To top off the visit, we hiked to another cave above the monastery, offering breathtaking views of the entire David Gareja complex and the surrounding landscape.

  Also located in Kakheti is the Alaverdi Monastery, situated in the fertile Alazani Valley. Founded in the 4th century by the Assyrian monk Ioseb Alaverdeli, it was later expanded in the 11th century, when King Kvirike III of Kakheti built a larger church on the site. This church, now known as Alaverdi Cathedral, is still in use today and is considered one of the Four Great Cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox Church.    

  For me, vacations have always been about adventure and connecting with the nature. I sometimes forget that they're also meant for rest and relaxation. That's why spending a night at Chateau Schuchmann was such a wonderful and refreshing experience. It allowed us to completely disconnect from everyday stress and embrace the slower pace of life. When we arrived at the chateau, our first stop was the in-house wine cellar, where we got an insight into the winemaking process and the story behind their local wines. After a bit of relaxing time in our cozy room, the evening offered something truly special: a Georgian cooking class. Guided by an old lady, we learned how to prepare several traditional dishes like handmade Khinkali, freshly baked Puri bread made in a traditional stone oven, and Chuchkhela, a local sweet made by dipping threaded walnuts in a cooked thickened grape juice. It was not only fun and hand-on, but also a delicious way to connect with the Georgien culture. The highlight of the evening followed shortly after, when we got to enjoy our homemade dishes - alongside many others - during a wine tasting among the vineyards. It was absolutely magical. Sitting in the peaceful setting of the vines, sipping the local wines, enjoying the company and enjoying a warm meal as the sun set - that was one of those rare travel moments that feels timeless. The next morning began with a sparkling wine breakfast, followed by pure relaxation in the Wine Spa: a 20-minutes red wine bath, followed by a 30-minute massage. I felt like in heaven. Taking the time to slow down and truly relax was just what I needed. And with our minds and bodies refreshed, we were ready for the next adventures awaiting us in the beautiful Georgia.   

  Not far from Chateau Schuchmann, we made a short detour to the Aleksandre Chavchavadze Complex, also known as the Tsinandali Estate - an architectural and historical monument located in the village of Tsinandali. The estate's beautifully landscaped gardens and the stately home itself were truly impressive. Everything was well decorated and exuded a timeless elegance. The surroundings reflected a refined atmosphere that transported us back to a time when Georgia was opening itself up to Western Europe. During the 19th century, European ideals and cultural influences began making their way into Georgia, and one man in particular played a key role in this transition: Aleksandre Chavchavadze. He was a remarkable figure - poet, translator, military officer, entrepreneur, and the father of Georgian Romanticism. Through his connections and vision, he helped introduce European education, art, and culture of Georgia, particularly to the eastern parts of the country. 

  Wandering through the estate, we felt the legacy of the Chavchavadze family in every detail. The palace was built in a European architectural style, and the expansive gardens - spanning over twelve hectares - were designed by European landscape architects. Today, they host a variety of exotic plant species that continue to thrive and lend the estate a distinctly romantic atmosphere. After exploring the estate, our guide Sebastian took us to the nearby Radisson Collection Hotel, a modern luxury hotel that harmoniously blends into the historical surroundings. One of the highlights was its private wine cellar, where we were treated to a short but fascinating tour. It was a perfect start into the day full of highlights in the beautiful region of Kakheti.   

  Our next destination was the picturesque hilltop town of Sighnaghi, often lovingly referred to as the City of Love. As we approached, it was easy to see why: charming cobblestone streets, colourful balconies adorned with wooden carvings, and a stunning 18th century defensive wall winding around the town like a protective ribbon. It felt like stepping into a romantic painting. Sighnaghi isn't only one of Georgia's oldest towns, but also arguably one of its most beautiful. Perched high on a hilltop, the town offers sweeping views over the vast plains of Kakheti, with the majestic Caucasus mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. There's a timeless elegance to the place - quiet, warm, and filled with soul. We started with a refreshing iced coffee at a cozy little café before wandering through the narrow streets. The real highlight, however, came next: a walk along the ancient City Wall. From up there, the view was nothing short of breathtaking - rolling hills, vineyards, and endless skies stretched out before us. You could just imagine sipping a glass of local wine while watching the sunset behind the mountains. Unfortunately, that magical suncet moment would have to wait for another trip.

  Our journey continued then to Telavi, the capital of the Kakheti region, known for its vibrant energy and rich flavours. The Telavi Bazaar was a feast for the senses: stalls bursting with colourful spices, fresh produce, homemade cheeses and handmade crafts. The air was full of aromas like garlic, herbs and sweet fruits. We tasted fresh cheese and pungent garlic, chatted with friendly vendors, and I couldn't resist picking up a spice blend especially made for cooking Khinkali. Afterwards, we strolled through Telavi's historic heart, walking along the old walls of the Batonis Tsikhe Fortress, which was once the royal residence, until we reached one of Telavi's most iconic natrual treasures: an 800-900-year-old Oriental Plane Tree, its massive canopy casting a wide, gentle shade. It stood there like a guardian of time, whispering stories from centuries past. As the golden hour approached, we sat down to enjoy a well-deserved Georgian dinner. We feasted on Badrijani, Lobiani and the ever-delicious Khachapuri and each bite felt like a warm embrace. Our final reward for the day was a spontaneous stop along the road to Tbilisi - just in time to catch a glowing sunset painting the sky in soft pink and orange golden shades.  

  After another restful night in Tbilisi, we packed our bags and set off the next morning toward Borjomi, nestled in the heart of central Georgia. Known for its mineral springs and lush forests, Borjomi promised a refreshing change of pace - and it certainly delivered. Our adventure began at the Borjomi Spring, the real source of the famous Borjomi mineral water. We were handed small cups to taste the naturally carbonated spring water - its flavour, a bold blend of salty and sulfuric, wasn't exactly my taste. From the spring, we wandered into the Borjomi Central Park, following a peaceful path along the riverbank. The trail took us past the Monument of Prometheus and some old, abandoned amusement rides, which must have been relics of what must have once been an ambitious amusement park project. As we moved deeper into the forest, a wonderful stillness surrounded us. The rustling leaves and gentle murmur of the stream made it easy to forget that we were away from the city. The scene reminded my of hiking in the Black Forest region - quiet, grounding and utterly serene. After a while, we reached the Borjomi Sulphur Pools, a natural bathing spot tucked away in the woods. We planned a short stop to dip into the water, which, despite being cooler than expected, felt incredibly soothing on the skin. It was a perfect refreshment before we continued the hike. As we ventured further through the forest, we gained an unexpected companion, a friendly stray dog, who decided to join our group. He trotted alongside us almost the entire way, all the way to the cable car station that would eventually take us down to Borjomi. It was such a simple, wholesome moment - one of those little surprises that makes travelling so special.

  On a spontaneous note, we also decided to go white-water rafting that afternoon. It was only my third time rafting, and it turned out to be a thrilling ride through the mountain river. It was simply amazing and definitely a contrast to our peaceful forest walk. After drying off and being shuttled back to the starting point, we were hit with a small hiccup: the car battery had died. While Sebastian handled the situation, the rest of us found a bench nearby and pulled out a deck of cards. Not long after, we were surprised with plates of grilled food and bread, handed to us by a group who seemed to be having a school BBQ or local outing. This spontaneous act of Georgian hospitality was so touching - it turned an inconvenient moment into one of warmth, generosity and laughter. Eventually, the car roared back to life and we hit the road again, this time toward Akhaltsikhe, a charming town in southern Georgia, where we spent the night and rest up for the next adventures.    

  After our thrilling outdoor adventures, it was time to slow things down and dive into Georgia's rich cultural and historical heritage. This day was destined to become one of the highlights of our entire trip. But let's start from the beginning. We began the morning with a relaxed breakfast at our cozy hotel in Akhaltsikhe, enjoying the calm before the historical storm. Not long after, we set off toward Rabati Castle, a medieval stronghold that hadn't even been on our original list, but ended up being a completely unforgettable experience. This impressive fortress, originally named Lomsia, which translates to "lion" in Georgian, certeinly lives up its name. Built in the 9th century, it feels every bit as mighty and majestic as its namesake. In the late 12th century, the fortress was renamed Akhaltsikhe, meaning "new fortress", and over time, the name Rabati (derived from the Arabic word for "fortified place") came to refer to both the market quarter and the fortress itself. Walking through the grounds, it's impossible not to feel the weight of history. Rabati has withstood invasions, including a major attack by Tamerlane's armies in 1393. Despite the devastation brought by the Turkic-Mongol forces, the fortress not only survived but also thrived. Later, under the Treaty of Constantinople in 1590, it became part of the Ottoman Empire, continuing to serve as a vital stop along the ancient Silk Road. What struck me the most was the breathtaking panoramic view from the watchtowers, accessible via the fortress walls. We could see the entire fortress complex, the surrounding city of Akhaltsikhe and the lush Georgian landscape stretching to the horizon. The architecture itself is a unique blend of cultures - Persian, Ottoman, Georgian - and at times, it almost felt as if we had stepped into Turkey or Iran. The mosque, the Oriental-style pillars, the domes, all stand in contrast to the massive medieval fortress walls, beautifully reflecting the diverse cultural tapestry of this region.

  After soaking in the sights and exploring every corner of Rabati Castle, we hit the road again with our next destination Vardzia. This was the place, I had been dreaming about since I first started planning the trip. A mystical cave city carved directly into the cliffside of a canyon. Vardzia rises almost 500 metres above the valley floor and holds the title of Georgia's largest cave monastery. Constructed in the 12th century under the rule of Queen Tamar, Vardzia was designed as a hidden sanctuary from Turkish and Persian invaders. At its peak, it contained over 3,000 individual caves spread across up to seven tiers, housing as many as 50,000 people. Entire communities lived within these stone walls, complete with bakeries, stables, baths, a library, a treasury and even a church - the stunning Church of the Dormition, which remains the centrepiece of the site. This church is still accessible today through a tunnel system and features beautiful frescoes, including the only known contemporary depiction of Queen Tamar herself. That in itself is worth the journey. Although an earthquake in 1283 destroyed large portions of the complex, around 750 rooms are still intact and open to visitors. As we wandered through the narrow tunnels and up the rocky staircases, I was completely mesmerised. The view from across the Mtkwari River, where the full scale of Vardzia comes into perspective, is simply jaw-dropping. The combination of raw natural beauty and awe-inspiring human craftsmanship makes Vardzia a place unlike any other. To cap it off, a small group of monks still lives in the monastery today, maintaining its spiritual legacy. Their private quarters are respectfully separated from the tourist routes, but their presence adds to the sacred atmosphere of the place. All in all, this day - from the majestic towers of Rabati Castle to the mystical caves of Vardzia - was simply amazing again. These two southern gems absolutely deserve a spot on every travel plan in Georgia. It's a journey through time, culture and landscapes.       

  After a week of travelling through the breathtaking landscapes of Georgia, we finally had a full day to explore the vibrant city of Tbilisi. While the girls decided to join a free walking tour, I felt the urge to carve out my own path and uncover the city's most mysterious corners. Just a few steps from our hotel stood the majestic Sameba Cathedral, a true architectural marvel that dominates the city skyline. Constructed between 1996 and 2004 in a cross-shaped layout, it's not only one of the main cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox Apostolic Church but also the largest religious building in the entire South Caucasus. As I stepped inside, I was struck by its opulence and contemporary elegance, which stood in complete contrast to the ancient, fresco-filled monasteries and churches we had visited before on our journey. Here, the atmosphere was more modern, yet still steeped in sacred reverence. From the cathedral, I strolled leisurely toward Rike Park, a lush urban oasis along the banks of the Mtkvari River. The park isn't only a serene spot to relax but also a central hub that connects to Tbilisi's Old Town via the striking, arched Peace Bridge. Glass and steel shimmered in the sunlight as I crossed into the historical heart of the city.

  Waiting on the other side was one of Tbilisi's most whimsical landmarks: the Gabriadze Clock Tower. With its crooked, fairy-tale facade, the tower seems like something straight out of a dream. Part of the famous puppet theatre founded by the legendary Rezo Gabriadze, the clock comes to life twice a day - at 12:00 PM and 7:00 PM - when a charming little performance called The Circle of Life unfolds. Delicate, hand-crafted puppets reenact a heartfelt love story, captivating passersby with their gentle movements and timeless message. Above, a beautifully painted door swings open on the hour, revealing a golden angel who strikes a bell - a magical moment many locals believe is perfect for making a wish. As the gentle chimes echoed through the narrow streets, I felt as though I stepped into a different world, one where art and history merge in perfect harmony. This tower isn't just a quirky photo stop, it's a cultural icon that reveals the poetic soul of Tbilisi. After watching the midday show, I continued onward to the charming Jewish Quarter, a district filled with colourful street art and the quiet dignity of an old synagogue. It was the perfect prelude to my climb up toward Kartlis Deda, the towering statue known as Mother of Georgia. Standing proudly on a hill overlooking the city, she holds a bowl of wine in one hand to greet friends, and a sword in the other to fend off enemies -  a powerful symbol of Georgian hospitality and resilience. From her feet, the view of Tbilisi below was simply spectacular.

  Later, reunited with the girls for lunch, we set off together to explore the Tbilisi Botanical Garden. Nestled in a lush valley just behind the imposing Narikala Fortress, the garden offered a peaceful escape and a closer look at the diverse flora of the Caucasus. With every step, we were rewarded with stunning glimpses of the ancient fortress walls rising above us - a constant reminder of the city's rich past. But our day wasn't over yet. One final adventure awaited us, the climb to Mtatsminda, the Holy Mountain that watches over Tbilisi from the western side. Though the hike was steep and our legs were growing tired, the panoramic views from the top made every step worth it. We could see the entire city sprawled out beneath us - a sea of red rooftops, church domes and modern skyscrapers blending into one mesmerising mosaic. As the sun dipped lower in the sky, we treated ourselves to a refreshing drink and a mountain tea at the mountaintop restaurant, soaking the final golden rays of the day. Too exhausted to hike back down, we hopped on the cable car and floated gently back toward the city below.     

  While Georgia's breathtaking landscapes and deep-rooted history are undeniably enchanting, the true heart of the country revealed itself to us through something even more intimate: its cuisine. The incredible diversity of Georgian food, paired with exquisite local wines, turned every meal into a celebration - a sensory journey that became one of the absolute highlights of our trip. From our very first meal in Tbilisi, we were hooked. Tired after the journey, we stepped into Pasanauri Restaurant and what awaited us was nothing short of culinary revelation. Flaky, golden Khachapuri with cheese, aromatic stews spiced with coriander and walnut and Khinkali that were much fun to eat as they were super delicious. That meal set the tone for everything that followed. For me, Georgian cuisine now ranks easily among the top three flavour experiences in the world. It wasn't just lunch and dinner that impressed us. Even the breakfast at our hotel was a feast with warm local specialities like Khachapuri and fresh fruits. We were lucky enough to visit Georgia during the apricot season, and the juicy, sun-ripened fruits were simply irresistible. Walking through Tbilisi's bustling streets and vibrant markets, the beautiful coloured fruit stands seemed to call out to us, ensuring we were never far from our next snack. Every day in Georgia felt like a Supra, full of shared plates, laughter and toasts that made us feel like being a part of a larger story. But among all these delicious memories, three food experiences stood out as truly unforgettable.

  The first was an unexpected little moment that unfolded during my solo day in Tbilisi. After hours of exploring, I ducked into a cozy café for a break and ordered a strong, fragrant Turkish coffee. As is at, savouring the rich taste and the quiet, I was approached by a young woman named Muslima, travelling from Uzbekistan with her mother. Our conversation was lighthearted, sprinkled with broken English, laughter and a lot of smiles. It was one of those beautiful, spontaneous travel moments and a reminder that good company and curiosity can bridge even the widest cultural gaps. The second standout moment came on our final night in Georgia. We had a dinner at Ethno Tsiskvili, a restaurant tucked away on the outskirts of Tbilisi that's famous not just for its phenomenal food, but for its spectacular live performances. As we dined, traditional Georgian music and dance unfolded around us - a celebration of culture that turned the evening into something truly magical. It was more than a meal, it was an experience that filled both, the stomach and the soul. But the pinnacle of our culinary adventure was the wine tasting organised by Sebastian after our return from Kazbegi. That evening was filled with laugter, storytelling and some of the finest Georgian wines I tasted during the whole trip. Our guide for the night was Hilarius Pütz, a passionate storyteller, who introduced us not only to the complex flavours of Georgian wine, but also to the rich history behind them. It was during the gathering that we met Ronny from Karlsruhe, whose humour and warmth added even more flavour to the night. By the end of the evening, I knew I couldn't leave Georgia empty-handed. Thankfully, I had left just enough space in my backpack for a bottle of wine - a piece of this generous country to bring back home with me.              

   No visit to Tbilisi would be complete without stepping into the Georgian National Museum, a true treasure trove of the country's rich and complex history. Nestled in the heart of the city, this museum offers an unforgettable journey through time, spanning from the prehistoric era to Georgia's modern-day story. One of the absolute highlights is the fascinating exhibition on early human history. Here, we stood face to face with a 1.8 million-year-old skull of Homo ergaster, discovered in Dmanisi, a small town in southern Georgia. This find isn't just impressive, it's groundbreaking. It represents one of the oldest human ancestors found outside of Africa and is a key puzzle piece in understanding early human migration. The museum dives deep into Georgia's natural and archaeological past, with beautifully preserved fossils and displays of the country's evolving flora and fauna. From there, we wandered into the world of ancient civilisations, discovering ornate gold and silver jewelry from the Bronze and Iron Ages, especially from the ancient Kingdom of Colchis. One particularly memorable artifact was a neolithic clay vessel decorated with grapevine motifs, dating back to the 6th millenium BC. This remarkable piece offers tangible proof of Georgia's proud claim as the cradle of wine culture - a heritage still very much alive today. The museum also showcases a variety of traditional clothing, including the iconic Chockha, alongside regional costumes, ancient coins and traditional music instruments like the Panduri. Each piece is a window into Georgia's vibrant identity. Perhaps the most moving part of our visit, however, was found on the third floor: the powerful exhibition on Soviet occupation. This section offers a raw and emotional glimpse into Georgia's struggle during Soviet rule from 1921 to 1991. Through personal belongings, haunting photographs, original documents and a chilling replica of a KGB prison cell, the exhibit tells stories of political repression and resilience in the face of oppression. It's not an easy visit, but certainly an essential one for anyone wanting to understand Georgia's modern spirit.  

  On our last day in Tbilisi, after visiting the Georgian National Museum, we wanted to end our trip with a bit of relaxation. Georgia is world-famous for its natural sulphur baths, so we made our way to King Erekle's Sulphur Bath, tucked away in the heart of Tbilisi's charming Old Town. Known for its natural sulphuric springs, this historic public bathhouse is steeped in centuries of tradition and offers a truly authentic glimpse into Georgian culture. The moment we stepped inside, we were welcomed by the soothing warmth of the mineral-rich air, the soft echo of water, and beautifully domed ceilings adorned with intricate mosaic tiles - a true reflection of local architectural artistry. The bathhouse features spacious private rooms, warm pools and a peaceful, almost meditative atmosphere. Locals and travellers alike flock here for the healing powers of the sulphur water - said to be excellent for the skin, circulation and general well-being. We opted for both hot and cold sulphur baths and to complete the experience, we booked a traditional Georgian massage - the perfect way to unwind after days of exploring and hiking. The deep massage and intense scrub left us feeling like new. While the girls treated themselves to an additional Thai massage afterward, I decided to take a walk and revisit one of my favourite spots in the city: Tbilisi's vibrant street art scene near the Baratashvili Bridge. The underpass beneath the bridge was like stepping into an open-air gallery - bursting with colour, character and creativity. Tbilisi's street art doesn't just impress with style, but with substance. Themes of history, identity and resistance blend with playful characters and modern graffiti, creating a truly soulful urban experience. It felt like the city was telling its story on every wall.

  After soaking in this visual feast, I met up with the girls again - just in time to be offered a drink by the friendly Thai massage ladies while we waited for our ride. We called a Bolt and headed to our final destination: The Chronicles of Georgia. This monumental sculpture park sits atop Keeni Hill, overlooking the northern edge of the Tbilisi Sea. Created by renowned Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli in 1985, the site was never fully completed, but what stands today is nothing short of awe-inspiring. Sixteen towering bronze pillars, each 30 to 35 metres tall, rise like sentinels against the skyline. The top sections depict kings, queens and national heroes, while the tower panels portray vivid scenes from the life of Christi. Nestled beside the monument is a grapevine cross dedicated to Saint Nino, the woman who first brought Christianity to Georgia, as well as a small, peaceful chapel. The Chronicles of Georgia present a powerful narrative - chronicling the country's history from the Paleolithic era to the dawn of agriculture, one of the key turning points in human civilisation. Often referred to as Georgia's Stonehenge, this monumental complex left us speechless. The scale, the symbolism, the setting - it was the perfect grand finale to our Tbilisi adventure.

  In our second week, we embarked on a truly unforgettable adventure deep into the wild beauty of Tusheti - a region that feels like a hidden world suspended between sky and mountains. It wasn't only just the staggering natural scenery that left us in awe, but also the heartfelt hospitality of the locals in our guesthouses. We were welcomed with an abundance of delicious homemade food, including rare local delicacies we hadn't come across anywhere else in Georgia. Even the journey to Tusheti was a spectacle in iself. As we climbed higher, the landscape unfolded in all its glory with vast alpine meadows, glistening glaciers, snow-capped peaks and cascading waterfalls lining the rugged road. At one point, we even drove through a waterfall and stopped for some quick photos as the water rushed around us. Just a few metres later, we had to stop again due to road construction along the narrow, winding climb to the legendary Abano Pass, often called the Gateway to Tusheti. At the top, we were rewarded with jaw-dropping views over the majestic Caucasus mountain range. One side offered crystal-clear visibility, while the other was veiled in a thick, drifting fog - a dramatic contrast that made the moment even more magical. Luckily, we caught a glimpse of the mist-covered valley on our return journey, when the clouds had lifted just enough to offer more spectacular views. Before continuing on, we paused at the aptly named Café Above the Clouds, where we sipped on traditional Tushetian herbal tea and had our first taste of the region's unique cuisine. We ordered a Kotori, Tusheti's special version of Khachapuri, and we were instantly hooked. Unlike other Khachapuri, Kotori isn't stuffed with cheese. Instead, it's made with a creamy curd-like filling kneaded directly into a simple dough, then fried in clarified butter. The same butter is poured over the pastry once it's cooked, adding even more richness. It was absolutely divine. Re-energised, we continued our journey, winding our way along the serpentine mountain road. About 30 kilometres later, we finally arrived in Omalo, the heart of Tusheti and our first overnight stop.      

  After settling into our cozy guesthouse in the remote mountain village of Omalo, we laced up our boots and set out on a short hike to get our first real feeling for the raw wilderness of Tusheti. It didn't take long before we were completely spellbound by the scenery around us. Towering peaks framed the horizon, their rugged outline etched sharply against the blue sky. Our trail led us through a peaceful patch of forest, where sunlight filtered softly through the leaves and further along, we wandered past a colourful sea of wildflowers. Eventually, we reached a cliffside that offered a breathtaking panoramic view over the untouched landscape below. And then, when we thought it couldn't get more magical, we spotted some wild horses grazing in the distance. Surprisingly, they weren't particularly skittish, allowing us to come fairly close. Still, I kept a respectful distance, not wanting to disturb them or invalide their space. There was something incredibly humbling about witnessing such freedom up close. From the very first moment, Tusheti had me under its spell. The peace and quiet of Omalo and its surroundings felt like true soul-soothing balm. Breathing in the fresh mountain air, soaking in the vast silence and just being present in that wild, untouched nature - it was the kind of experience that gently rewires my inner rhythm. Later that day, just a short walk from our guesthouse, we climbed the hill up to Keselo Fortress. Though partially in ruins, it still stands proudly with its original Tushetian watchtower, a silent guardian overlooking the valley. From up there, the view over Omalo was absolutely stunning and as the sun dipped behind the mountains, we were treated to a sunset so mesmerising that it burned itself into our memories. Just when I thought the day couldn't be topped anymore, we came back to the guesthouse for the feast. Dinner that night was nothing short of epic. The table was overflowed with hearty local dishes. But what really set the tone was the local spirit: wine and Chacha. After eleven glasses of Chacha that night, I didn't really feel so well, even in the next morning. Still, no regrets. That first day in Tusheti was pure magic. A perfect, wild and unforgettable beginning to the adventure ahead.    

  The next morning greeted us with a gentle hangover from the night before and the lingering taste of a truly fantastic breakfast. Despite the slightly slow start, our Tusheti adventure was far from over - in fact, it was just getting better. Our first stop of the day was the Gontai Mountain View Point and although the trail was fairly steep, the reward waiting at the top was beyond worth it. With every step uphill, we were reminded why we lace up our boots in the first place. The 360-degree panoramic view was nothing short of spectacular - as if we had stepped straight into a living postcard. The snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus loomed in the distance, framing a foreground painted with wildflowers in every colour imaginable. That was nature at its finest and absolutely magical. We lingered for a while, soaking it all in, before continuing on toward Dartlo, a picturesque and charming mountain village, where we were spending our second night in a cozy guesthouse. After arriving in Dartlo, we took some time to explore - wandering through the narrow stone paths, along the gentle river, past grazing cows and free-roaming horses that seemed entirely unbothered by our presence. Then, we all together met again for a laid-back lunch in a tiny local restaurant, where hearty Tushetian dishes fueled us for what was still to come.

  Post-lunch, a well-earned rest was neccessary, but after some time of laying in bed, the real hike of the day still awaited us. As we set off in the afternoon, it quickly became clear that only Claudia and I had enough energy left to tackle the trek to Kvavlo, a remote village perched even higher in the mountains. So the two of us carried on alone, stepping into the silence of the nature with only the sound of our footsteps for company. Shortly after passing through a creaky wooden gate, we were greeted by two massive Tushetian mountain dogs. My heart definitely skipped a beat, but luckily we still had a few breakfast biscuits stashed in our backpacks. Bribery worked wonders and the dogs seemed more than happy with the unexpected treats. One of them even decided to follow us during the hike - whether out of loyality or a desire for more snacks, we'll never know. Either way, it was oddly comforting having him by our side. The trail to Kvavlo turned wilder as we climbed, including one rather dramatic moment, where we had to cross a little stream of a waterfall. And, of course, in classic hiking fashion, I slipped off the wooden plank and plunged one foot straight into the water, but it luckily didn't ruin my good mood. Then, we finally made it to Kvavlo, where the views opened up once more in all their glory. Vast valleys, jagged peaks and a horizon that seemed to stretch forever. After a short break to rest our legs, we made our way back down the mountain, hoping to arrive at the guesthouse in time for the dinner. We still had a few biscuits left for our lovely new dog friends and back at the guesthouse, a phenomenal dinner was waiting for us. Generous, flavourful and prepared with love - the perfect ending to a day full of adventure, unexpected encounters and unforgettable views.           

  Our last big adventure in Tusheti began with a visit of Bochorna, officially the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe, perched at 2,345 metres above sea level. As we stood above the treetops, the valley below bathed in golden sunlight, we took in one last round of breathtaking panoramic views. The atmosphere was light, our spirits were high and the mountains seemed to stretch forever into the horizon. From Bochorna, our journey took us to the picturesque village of Shenako. Tucked into the folds of the Caucasus mountains, Shenako looks like something out of a fairytale. Its charm lies not only in the dramatic mountain backdrop, but in its beautifully preserved examples of Georgian folk architecture - centuries-old stone houses and towers that whisper stories of a time long past. Towering above the village is Mount Diklo, standing guard like a silent sentinel. At Shenako's heart lies the Church of the Holy Trinity, built in 1843. Despite its age, the church is wonderfully intact and what truly stole my heart were the vivid frescoes still adorning its walls - brilliant colours that have somehow withstood the passage of time. Just behind the church, hidden in the landscape, we found one of the sacred niches, a quiet sanctuary and remnant of Georgia's pre-Christian pagan past. These spiritual places were later embraced and woven into the country's Christian faith, blending old beliefs with new traditions.

  Next, we made our way toward Diklo, and of course, Claudia and I couldn't resist another hike. We passed vast sheep herds and soaked in yet more jaw-dropping views. As we arrived in the village, we were immediately greeted by a sign: "Attention: Border Zone!". Visiting Diklo and hiking further to Old Diklo wasn't just a simple thing. When we stayed in Omalo, we had to stop by the military station to obtain a special permit - our visa for this sensitive area. It's neccessary, as the old fortress ruin in Old Diklo is so close to the Russian border that you can quite literally look across the valley into Russian territory. Standing there, I realised, I had never been this close to the Russian border before - it was both fascinating and slightly surreal. At the end of a long and adventure-filled day, we returned to Omalo for our final night in Tusheti. On the one side with a smiling and on the other side feeling sad, we said goodbye to this unforgettable region. The four days in Tusheti had been a whirlwind of mountain adventures, laughter, unforgettable landscapes and some of the most delicious food we've ever tasted. 

  With only one full day left in Tbilisi before flying back to Germany, the end of the journey was looming. Still, what remained was a deep sense of gratitude and the certainty that Georgia, with its awe-inspiring nature and warm hospitality, is a place we'll return again.