Finland 2025/26

The Arctic Adventure in Lapland

  After Christmas, two long-held dreams finally came true for me. For years, I wanted to experience the snow-laden winter landscapes of Lapland, and with my trip to Rovaniemi in Finland, I was also able to tick off the very last destination on my Nordic country travel list. Even though the journey there didn't go entirely as planned - heavy snowstorms across Scandinavia caused disruptions to air traffic - everything somehow worked out in the end. My AirBnB host even picked me up directly at the airport, which made the final leg of the trip surprisingly relaxed. So despite the delays, I arrived at my accomodation feeling calm and relieved, even if it was already close to 11 p.m. After a short tour of the AirBnB, I didn't hesitate for long before heading straight to bed. I had left Freiburg as early as 6 a.m. and with a full day of exploring Rovaniemi ahead of me, sleep was evry much needed. The adventure was only just beginning.

  The first day in Rovaniemi was all about adjusting - to the biting cold and to the extraordinary rhythm of light that shapes life this far north. After an early start, I stopped by a local supermarket to gather a few essentials for breakfast before heading out on my first exploration of the town. Wrapped up in layers against the crisp -15 °C air, I set off just in time to catch the sunrise at around 11 a.m. And since the sun was already preparing to dip below the horizon again by 1:30 p.m., I was lucky enough to witness both sunrise and sunset during the same leisurely walk. Rovaniemi itself is small and charming, a town that feels both intimate and quietly magical. What struck me immediately were the classic Christmas decorations scattered throughout the streets. A beautifully adorned Christmas tree here, glowing reindeer made of fairy lights and sometimes even reindeer ice sculptures there. Everywhere there was a touch of festive sparkle. Combined with the thick blanket of snow covering the city, it truly felt like stepping into a winter wonderland. The atmosphere was cozy, joyful and undeniably heartwarming.

  That sense of hygge-like comfort only deepened during breaks in some of the town's lovely cafés. My personal highlights were the indulgent hot chocolate and cake at Choco Deli Oy Rinteenkulma - a place so good I found myself returning twice - and Coffee House Rovaniemi, which won me over with its irresistibly soft and fragrant cinnamon buns. Each stop was a welcome retreat from the cold and a chance to simply soak in the peaceful Artic ambiance. Rovaniemi also turned out to be a culinary adventure. Since I was visiting over New Year's, securing restaurant reservations was quite a challenge. Nevertheless, I was fortunate enough to book tables at what are considered two of the best spots for traditional Lappish cuisine. My first dinner was at Nili Restaurant. As a starter, I ordere the Rovaniemi Market, a platter technically meant for two people - but it was far too tempting to resist. It turned out to be so generous that I happily skipped the main course. The wooden board was filled with regional specialities: salmon, Arctic char, whitefish tartare, reindeer salami, moose and reindeer fillet, mayonnaise, cheese and cloudberry jam. Each bite offered a different taste of Lapland, unique and absolutely delicious. For dessert, I treated myself to squeaky cheese with cloudberries served in a traditional kuksa cup. Of course, I couldn't leave without trying the glögi, beautifully garnished with cranberries, almonds and even small spruce twigs, adding an extra layer of seasonal flavour. At Lappish Restaurant Taiga, I opted for traditional sourdough bread with smoked butter to start, followed by the classic sautéed reindeer with mashed potatoes, lingonberries and pickles - once again accompanied by a warming cup of glögi. The flavours were rich, hearty and deeply comforting, perfectly suited to the Arctic winter outside. I left both restaurants thoroughly impressed and would wholeheartedly recommend them to anyone visiting Rovaniemi. All in all, my first impressions and the culinary highlights alone made for a perfect beginning to what already felt like a true Finnish winter fairytale.     

   One of the absolute highlights in Rovaniemi is the Ounasvaara Hiking Trail. Not only is it perfect for winter walks, but it also invites cross-country skiers to glide through the snowy landscape. I decided to start by exploring it on foot, taking my time to admire the serene, snow-covered Finnish forest before heading up to the Observation Tower to watch the sunset. With a thermos of hot tea tucked into my backpack, I found a quiet spot on top of the tower and paused to take it all in. The sky slowly shifted through soft pastel shades as the sun dipped below the horizon. It was peaceful, almost meditative. The cold temperatures were manageable as long as I kept moving, but the moment I stood still for too long, I could feel the chill creeping in - especially into my feet. After warming up with a few sips of tea and soaking in the view, I continued along the trail to explore more of the magical landscape. Later that same day, an idea sparked: why not return to the Observation Tower at night? It took quite a bit of motivation to leave the warmth of my AirBnB again and step into the -25 °C darkness. But that decision turned out to be more than worth it. That night, I witnessed my first Northern Lights in Finland. Unlike my experience in Iceland in 2024, the aurora was cleraly visible to the naked eye this time. Watching the green lights dance across the Arctic sky felt surreal and deeply special.

  On New Year's Eve, I made my way up to the Observation Tower once again, hoping for another glimpse of the Northern Lights. Despite increased solar activity, none appeared that night. Still, the evening had its own unique charm. A group of Russian tourists invited me to join them by their campfire and share a vodka, and of course I couldn't resist. We stood together in the freezing night, warming ourselves by the fire, laughing and celebrating the final hours of the year in the middle of the Arctic wilderness. Later, I headed towards the Jätkänkynttilä Bridge, where the city had organised a fireworks display. I watched the colourful explosions light up the sky and captured a few videos, though my hands quickly began to freeze - I had underestimated just how brutal -25 °C can feel without gloves. Eventually, I had to retreat back into the warmth, fingers numb but heart full. What I appreciated most was that the fireworks ended shortly after 1 a.m., allowing the city to return to its calm atmosphere. by the next morning, everything was already cleaned up, as if the celebration had quietly folded itself away. Even without a second aurora sighting, it was a memorable and truly unique New Year's Eve - one that I will always associate with snow, silence and a sky full of possibility. 

  To dive deeper into the history and culture of Rovaniemi - and Lapland as a whole - I decided to spend an afternoon at the Arktikum, a fascinating museum and science centre right on the banks of the Ousnasjoki River. With its striking glass corridor stretching toward the river, the building itself already feels like a gateway to the Arctic world. Inside, the Provincial Museum of Lapland invites visitors on a journey through time with its exhibition Northern Ways. Here, the story of Lapland unfolds: from ancient settlements and traditional livelihoods to the dramatic events of the Lapland War and the region's path into modernity. Particularly moving are the insights into Sámi culture. Beautiful examples of Sámi handicrafts, intricate duodji pieces and traditional costumes offer a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Europe's only Indigenous people. Through objects, photographs and personal stories, the exhibition gives a voice to the peoples of the North and the personalities who have shaped Lapland's identity. A highlight of my visit was the newly renewed permanent exhibition Arctic Opposites, which opened in December 2024. The Arctic, stretching around the North Pole, is one of the most extraordinary and fragile regions on our planet, and this exhibition captures its contrasts beautifully. Structured around five main themes - The Arctic, Cryosphere, Eight Seasons, Living Arctic and Exploring the Arctic - it explores everything from icy landscapes and climate systems to the resilience of those who call this region home.

  I was especially fascinated by the concept of the eight seasons, reflecting how life in the Arctic is far more nuanced than the typical four-season calendar. The exhibition also provides in-depth information about Arctic wildlife and ecosystems, showing how closely animals, nature and human life are intertwined in this extreme environment. Another unforgettable experience was the film Arctic Seasons. This immersive cinematic journey took me through the ever-changing moods of the Arctic year. From the magical stillness of the polar night and the hypnotic dance of the Northern Lights to the surreal glow of the midnight sun, eachs eason reveals its own personality. The film beautifully illustrates how both animals and humans adapt their rhythms and behaviours to the dramatic shift in light and temperature, surviving and thriving in a landscape that feels at once powerful, delicate, mysterious and inviting. To learn more about Rovaniemi's own past, I also visited a special photography exhibition by Hildur Larsson, showcasing photographs of Rovaniemi and Lapland from the early 1900s. These historical images offer a captivating window into everyday life more than a century ago -  a quiet yet powerful contrast to the modern Arctic city outside the museum walls. I rounded off this truly inspiring afternoon with a cosy coffee break at the Arktikum Café. Sitting there with a warm cup in ahnd, overlooking the snowy landscape, I reflected on how deeply the Arctic shapes everything here - from history and culture to nature and daily life.       

  On New Year's Eve morning, I decided to visit Santa Claus Village - because what better way to end the year than by stepping straight into a winter fairytale? From Rovaniemi, I took a relaxed bus ride north, watching the snowy landscape glide past the windows. Even though Christmas was already over, the village was buzzing with visitors from all over the world, all eager to experience a little leftover holiday magic. Not wanting the queues to grow even longer, I headed straight to the line to meet Santa himself. Still, it took a full hour of waiting before the cheerful Christmas elves finally ushered me inside. The anticipation only added to the experience. Then, at last, I stepped into the warmly lit room and met Santa Claus in person - complete with a photo to capture the moment. It felt wonderfully surreal, like stepping back into childhood for a few minutes. Afterwards, I wandered through the village at a more leisurely pace, soaking in the enchanting winter atmosphere. Twinkling lights, snow-covered rooftops, and the scent of pine in the crisp Arctic air made it feel like walking through a living snow globe. One of the absolute highlights of Santa Claus Village is definitely crossing the magical Arctic Circle line, which runs directly through the village. But what exactly is the Artcic Circle? The Artic Circle is a line of latitude located at 66°33'45.9'' north of the Equator. It marks the southernmost point where, at least once a year, it's possible to experience the polar night in winter - when the sun doesn't rise at all - or the midnight sun in summer, when it never truly sets. Standing there, knowing I had crossed this invisible yet significant boundary, made the visit even more special.

  Originally, I had planned to visit Santa's Main Post Office as well. From here, it's possible to send Christmas greetings to friends and family, have postcard stamped with the famous Arctic Cicle special postmark, or even write a letter directly to Santa Claus. However, the queue stretched far outside, and after my earlier wait, I decided to skip it. The village also offers reindeer and husky sleigh rides through the snowy forest. Since I had already booked a tour for the following days, I chose instead to simply wander and let myself be enchanted by the festive decorations and cosy atmosphere. To round off my time in this winter wonderland, I treated myself to salmon grilled over an open fire. Once again, I had to wait - about 45 minutes out in the freezing cold. Without moving much, my feet quickly grew numb in the snow. But the moment I tasted the perfectly cooked, smoky salmon, I knew it had been worth every chilly second. Warm and happily full, I finally made my way back to the bus stop and returned to Rovaniemi, carrying with me the lingering magic of the Arctic and a truly memorable final day of the year 2025.    

  What's better than beginning the New Year 2026 with a breathtaking winter hike? After a two-hour drive from Rovaniemi to the trailhead parking lot of Korouoma Canyon, another true Arttic adventure began. Wrapped in layers against the crisp northern air, we set off along the circular trail, our boots crunching rhythmically over the snow-covered ground. At first, the path led us through a silent Finnish forest blanketed in white. Snow clung to the branches like powdered sugar, and the only sounds were the soft whisper of the wind and the steady rhythm of our foodsteps. Soon, we reached the first viewing platform - and there they were: the frozen waterfalls of Korouoma, glistening in the pale winter light. Even from a distance, they looked majestic, seamlessly woven into the dramatic landscape. Korouoma Canyon stretches for about 30 kilometres and plunges up to 130 metres deep. This impressive canyon valley is framed by steep cliffs, rushing rapids, and some of the most spectacular frozen waterfalls in Finland. From every angle, the scenery felt almost unreal - lik stepping into a postcard brought to life.

  To get closer to the waterfalls, we descended deeper into the canyon along steep, rope-secured paths. Each careful step across the icy surfaces required focus, but the reward was worth it. The closer we came, the more mesmerising the frozen cascades became. Towering columns of ice shimmered in shades of white and yellow, each waterfall unique in its structure and form - some delicate and lace-like, others massive and powerful, frozen mid-fall in time. The hike became a feast for all the senses: the sharp, clean scent of frost in the air, the crunch of snow beneath our boots, the breathtaking sight of ice columns crafted by nature itself. And just when we thought the experience couldn't get any better, we ended the adventure with a cosy grill session over an open campfire. Gathered around the flames, we warmed our hands while enjoying hot dogs and steaming cups of warm grape juice. The crackling fire, the comforting food, and the shared laughter created the perfect moment of rest and warmth in the middle of the Arctic wilderness. Re-energised and pleasantly warm, we tackled the final uphill stretch back to the parking lot - our hearts full with memories and our New Year's Day already unforgettable.   

  The start of the new year in Finland felt like stepping straight into a real-life winter fairytale. After hiking through the breathtaking Korouoma Canyon, where the frozen waterfalls glittered like icy chandeliers, my next adventure was already waiting: a visit to a Husky Farm deep in the snowy wilderness. As soon as I arrived, I was given a full tour of the farm. I had the chance to greet and cuddle the huskies, who welcomed me with bright eyes and boundless energy. Watching the small, fluffy puppies tumble around in the snow was easily one of the sweetest moments of the trip - tiny paws, playful growls, and pure joy everywhere I looked. After the tour around the farm, it was time for a guided husky sledge ride. At first, I sat comfortably at the front of the sledge, taking in the stunning winter landscapes as the dogs powdered through the snow-covered forest. Halfway through the route, though, I was handed the reins. Suddenly, I wasn't just a passenger anymore, I was driving the sledge myself. It was an incredibly thrilling experience. I quickly realised just how much strength these dogs have; more than once, I had to press the brake firmly with both feet to keep everything under control. The rush of steering the team through the Arctic silence was unforgettable. Back at the farm, the hardworking huskies were rewarded with well-deserved snacks, and I even got to feed the dogs from my own sledge team - a special moment that made the experience feel even more personal. Before leaving, I returned to the puppies and was allowed to hold one of them in my arms. To warm up, we gathered inside a traditional Sámi tent, where a crackling campfire, hot berry juice and chocolate were already waiting. Sitting by the fire, hands wrapped around a warm cup, while the cold Arctic air lingered outside, felt like pure hygge.

  But the adventure didn't stop here. I also visited a Reindeer Farm in Lapland, where temperatures had dropped to an astonishing - 37 °C. Wrapped tightly in a thick wool blanket, I settled into a sledge - and off we went through the silent Finnish forest. My reindeer, however, clearly had a competitive streak. It kept trying to overtake the others, zigzagging from left to right, which made the right unexpectedly hilarious and even more funny. After the sledge ride, it was feeding time again. This time, the snack consisted of moss, grasses and lichen, which was a true delicacy for the reindeer. Then it was back to the warmth of an open fire, where we learned more about the long history and cultural significance of reindeer farms in Lapland. Tea was served alongside freshly made crêpes topped with blueberries - the perfect ending to the frosty adventure. Despite the immense cold, the reindeer sledge ride was just as magical and unique as the husky tour. Finland in winter isn't just a destination, it's an experience that stays long after the snow has melted. 

  For my final adventure, I had one last dream left to chase: seeing the Northern Lights on a guided tour outside of Rovaniemi. Since thick clouds were covering Rovaniemi and the surrounding area, our small group of six piled into a van and drove almost two hours south in search of clear skies. We arrived near Kemi, hopeful and excited - but the sky remained stubbornly quiet. For three long hours, we waited in the night, scanning the darkness for even the faintest shimmer of green. But unfortunately, nothing appeared. Eventually, tired and slightly disappointed, we made the long drive back to Rovaniemi. But I wasn't ready to already give up. Spontaneously, I booked another Northern Lights tour for my final evening - this time in a larger group. Once again, we left Rovaniemi behind, driving around 1,5 hours in the direction of Russia to escape the heavy cloud cover. When we reached our viewing spot for the night, a campfire was lit to keep us warm. We could step back onto the heated bus at any time, but most of us chose to stay outside, watching the sky with quiet anticipation. At first, it was just a faint green glow on the horizon - so subtle that I almost had to convince myself it was real. But slowly, the shimmer grew stronger. The pale green intensified, stretching and moving, becoming clearer and brighter by the minute. And then suddenly, they were there: real dancing auroras, swirling and flowing across the sky. This time, i didn't just see them through my phone camera - I could see them vividly with my own eyes. It was absolutely magical. Through my camera lens, I could even capture hints of red auroras woven into the green curtains of light, although they were still quite subtle to the naked eye. Standing there beneath the vast Finnish sky, watching the colours shift and pulse above me, made every kilometre drivin and every cold minute of waiting completely worth it. 

  Looking back, my trip to Rovaniemi allowed me to fulfill so many dreams and long-held wishes. Starting the year under spectacular Northern Lights felt symbolic, like nature's own celebration overhead. I started the new year feeling deeply grateful, incredibly happy, and full of excitement for all the adventures still waiting to come in 2026.